The Journey

From the time I first visited the Manassas battlefield outside of Washington, DC, in the early 1990s, I've always found visiting the Civil War battlefields a fascinating experience.

I had a field in military history with the late great historian, Russell Weigley, while I was in graduate school at Temple University in Philadelphia. I was fortunate to have been one of a group of students that Dr. Weigley led on visits to both Manassas and Gettysburg where we walked the battlefields. Weigley could talk about the battles as though those who were engaged were acquaintances of his. At Gettysburg, despite a blazing hot sun, we walked Pickett's charge from Seminary Ridge to Cemetery Ridge with Prof. Weigley leading the way.

Most of what I know about the Civil War comes from my experience with Dr. Weigley or from his books. The battle of Shiloh of April 1862, which had always interested me, both because of it being the bloodiest day in American history, but also because it showed Ulysses S. Grant's understanding of what it would take to win the war - mainly a mastery of logistics and a willingness to accept the casualties that it would take to preserve the union.

So, when spring break approached, I began to plan on a visit to Shiloh. While considering the route, my plans began to expand as I saw some other opportunities. I determined that if I based myself first at Mufreesboro, I could visit the National Military Park at the Stone Creek Battlefield, which is just on th edge of the town. From there, Chattanooga and Chickamagua were less that a two hour drive so I could stay at Murfreesboro and simply make an easy round trip. Then I could drive from Mufreesboro and stay in Savannah, Tennessee, the nearest town to the Shiloh battlefield.

Murfreesboro is just outside of Nashville and I'm determined to go back to spend some time in Music City. Also, President Andrew Jackson's home, the Hermitage, is near there, as are a couple of preserved old southern plantations. But this trip was to be devoted to the carnage of the Civil War.